This was the planned second of, hopefully, 3 times we will go to the mountains as a group this year. I have wanted to do this route for ages so was really pleased others took me up on my suggestion. As ever, it meant an early start from Baselland. We would be a party of 4, 2 of us took the early train to Meiringen where we met companion 3 and we met up with companion 4 at the bottom of Sustenpass.
Lots of talk about the potential weather - rain? no rain? how cold will it be? The Epic Ride prediction had been small chance of rain late afternoon and cooler than 10Deg C at the top of the mountain. It tuned out to be mostly right. It conflicted a bit with Meteo Swiss who predicted more rain, hence the regret of bringing only the wind jacket and no rain gear. A few of us had knee/leg warmers packed but if it had been very wet, we would be very wet.
Once all collected together, rain potential discussed at length we set off up the first part of Sustenpass, excited and ready for adventure.
The first section up the main pass road before we turned left towards, Gental had traffic but not a huge amount. It was still horrible in a tunnel with a lorry making noises like the end of the world but he passed us and we recovered our composure. It didnt take long before we turned left and from then on there was hardly a car in sight. It was here that our Innertkirchen pick up companion needed some help with gears. Dispite the best effort they refused the chain stay in the lowest gear/largest cog. I knew she would need all the gears she had given the gradient so I fiddled with the barrel adjuster and fixed it - success :).
The road weaved its way up the steep hill, through thick trees and a number of hairpin bends. After a few kilometers the trees stopped, the road turned a corner and I could see the Swiss flag indicating the toll barrier and the first real stop.
Another of the earlier conversations had been the lack of insect repellent and the expected number of horse flies. The cafe gave us some of theirs and 3 of us sprayed it on. I didnt, preferring to chance the flies.
Now refreshed and with some spots of rain (quick! get the non waterproof jackets on1!) we headed off to the valley proper. The road is fairly straight for a few kms a gentle incline made for easy rolling and lots of chatting. We were on the look out for wildlife and were rewarded with a close encounter with a marmot. It was sitting at the mouth of its burrow looking around when we spotted it. It was brilliant, we were all surprised at how calm it was, when a bunch of chatty humans not very far away kept taking its picture. I have seem them once before, at the top of this valley and heard many in other places but this was the closest ive ever been and it just stood there - being photogenic.
Once back on the road it wasnt long before we saw more, a bit further away this time but many more. Some looked small, were standing on the hind legs or running through the grass. Wonderful. Next was a car! and another... and another! wow peak traffic. It was in this furry of vehicles that a kind Belgian car stopped opposite a passing place leaving it for us to use to pass. They was nearly overtaken by a larger van - who seemingly assumed the Belgians had stopped to admire the view and not for a real reason as it charged past, saw us, stopped then had to reverse out of the way again. We waved thanks to the car, not to the van.
By this point we were about half way up the valley and now it started to get serious again. It was so tempting just to stop and look around - is that a goat? where? there on the sheer cliff just past the green trees past the waterfall.
With this steeper climbing we split up and the stronger climbers went ahead and all went at our own pace. The road climbs and climbs, with occasional hairpin bends when you turn back on yourself and get yet another spectacular view down the valley we had just climbed up. Finally, finally we reached the top. This was signalled by the existence of a hotel, a cafe, bus-stop and the lake!
To get to the lake for different views we pushed our bikes over the heavy gravel and then grass. A few people were already there, fire pits on the go and fishing being done. We sat at the side of the water, taking in the scenery - and lots and lots of photos. The temperature had been really pleasant on the way up, no rain after all just cooler and I felt great. The last time I was here I didnt have the strength to see the water, and headed straight for a cafe for some sugar refill. Once we had had our fill of views and were cooling down we decided to go for some food. The one I had visited before was being renovated so this time we went to the hotel.
It was really quiet - great fun - so we took over 3 tables, with helmets, blankets etc and had a lovely lunch of soup and chips - so carbs and salt - perfect. More photos were taken and shared between us. It was agreed that the route was wonderful.
Now for the adventure... see that path over the hill? thats where we are going. Its not far and only a lot steep. The last section has a metal cable attached to the side of the mountain to hold on to and avoid slipping off.
We cycle for a few hundred meters than had to get off and push / carry up the narrow path. We navigated the goats and the many butterflies - to reach the top safely.
Once at the top and past the herd of interested cows who watched our every move, we reached tarmac again and could ride the bike!!
We had reached Melchsee-Frutt, civilisation and tourism central. The short ride from to the road downhill was flat and quite fast till we had to stop to let the small train/bus past. Children were hanging out the side with their arms outstreched so we gave the high 5s like we were pros at a race. Madness.
So now we needed to get to the exit - the road down the mountain is open for cars but only one way each alternate hour and I had no idea if were half an hour early or late. We arrived at the start and the lights were green. I made us stop for a few more minutes to scoff a now soggy banana before we all started the descent. Even though there would be no oncoming traffic it wasnt without its challenges. First was a car that wanted to pass, then some sloooow cows in the middle of the road and finally some army type people with gigantic rucksacks standing around in the middle of the road. All hazards avoided, all that was left was the steep and bendy road down to Stöckalp. Its quite a road. Once of us realised that the sledging route they had done over the winter was actually a road.
We were now on the home stretch, the rain started to be heavier and we were all very glad that the road down had been dry. We pushed on northwards, saying goodbye to one when she turned left to go to Sarnen and catch the train back to Meiringen, we kept going. A short gravel (Komoot!) section before the fast stuff to Stans. Last food stop at Stans, booking a bike space in a train gave us an hour to do the last 15kms.
We arrived in Luzern station, damp but very happy. Food purchased, train boarded, we sat down after an excellent trip. Days like this are why I cycle all winter, this is what its all for. The scenery is simply magical and the wildlife! I love the mountains, in Scotland they are smaller, wetter and, while impressive, nothing like this.
Thanks to all who came along and were up for the gravel walk, it was a wonderful day out.
Distance - 77km
Climbing - 1734m
Avg Speed - too slow to mention
Marmots - many
Goats - more
Curious cows - even more
Horse flies - too many, some now dead
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