Saturday, 16 August 2025

Through the tunnel to the sun

The 3rd visit to the mountains was another early start and some nerves on the train. The planned route was to Lac cu Derborence which is at the end of a valley north of Sion. To get there early enough to reduce the exposure to the heat that was forecast, meant we booked the Milan train. This is normally quite busy so it was a gamble. I booked my bike space a few days before the day itself, when the SBB app advised busy (2 out of 3 people on the expected occupancy indicator icon) and I got carriage 16, while my companion booked 2 days before and was given carriage 5. I thought this might mean a long distance conversation on the trip down :). On the morning of the ride I checked the train times and was disappointed to see it was now 3 red people in the indicator. The reason? only half the train was there. Carriage 16 didnt exist and the train was going to be shortened. Would I get on at all???? At Olten we were told that there was space in 5 - so we went to 5 and a group of mountain bikes tried their luck at 6 -phew! We got on, packed the bikes in the space after rearranging some cases and then stood for a while, another bike arrived and it all seemed to fit. Eventually seats became available so we could sit down, another bike arrived.... then left 1 stop later. 

We got through the tunnel, out of the train at Visp, relieved to have managed so far. The change to the Geneva airport train for the short journey to Sion meant we started cycling before 9:30! The weather forecast had predicted mid 30 DegC for Sion later in the day and the first part of the climb is in full sun so I was pleased the trains worked so well, despite the initial concern.

Now onto the good stuff - the climb. I have been up a few of these valleys, most recently Turtmanntal last week. I was looking on Climbfinder.com and the road to Derborence was described as easier than other climbs in the area, except the initial section to just past Aven. I found more information on Quaeldich which had pictures of tunnels which I really like.

https://www.quaeldich.de/paesse/lac-de-derborence/

This first section was before the road turned into the valley itself, winding its way up through vineyards. We reached Erde and then it got steeper and by the time we reached Aven, I needed a breather - and we stopped for a short break.


I am useless at getting back on the bike when its steep so it took me a bit to get back on, my companion had gone ahead so I then had something to aim for in the very steep part. According to her Garmin there were some short 14% sections, I just focussed on my breathing and plodded along, slightly regretting taking the 11-36 cassette off last week and now only had a 34 - but never mind. We both reached the corner a bit puffed out - but were rewarded by an amazing view and the promise of exciting tunnels and a flatter section. The shade also began here, as soon as we were out of the direct sun, it cooled down and I felt much better.

We set off up the valley road, it was wonderful. Fairly flat with incredible views of the sheer drop to the left over the barrier - it never felt scary though. The road is wide enough to feel perfectly fine and there was very little traffic. There is a bus service (of course there is!) and we met that but much later right at the top. We cycled on, cool and refreshed, chatting about how perfect the views were when we saw the sign for the tunnels - they did not disappoint.




I had both front and rear lights, so I rode in front. I switched them to constant beam as the flashing was strange - and we were passed by a single car. The road through the tunnels was flat, so they were easy to ride. Huge openings through the cliff made some sections quite light, while other parts were darker. We needed the lights. What an experience, simply epic. The tunnels are in sections, most are arched but one is totally bus shaped :).

Once out the other end, the climbing restarted. With the shade from the valley and the tunnels gone, we had sunshine again. I heated up as we climbed the last few kms to the top. It was brilliant though. We passed what looked like a totally natural pond but there was a funny noise and then we realised there seemed to a fountain in the middle of it! We negotiated a few more corners, saw mountain bikers, who had passed us going up with the e-bikes, come down again and they swooshed a left turn along another road - we had a look later. 

It was now at the last corner that the bus appeared behind us, I didnt realise how close were were to the top so we huddled to the side of the road pulling our bikes out of the way.  The bus squeezed past and I had to restart on a hill again. Given my skills at this, it took me a bit and when I finally got going my companion was already ahead shouting that we were at the top! The busses (there were 2) were parked in a carpark, other car were there too and a number of people were milling about. We negotiated the gravel path and proceeded to the Refuge for a rest and recover. The scenery for the snack stop was breathtaking as if the tunnels hadn't been enough :). The Refuge has a restaurant and a terrace. The terrace had a sign that said Self Service to I teetered my way up the ramp and discovered that there was no option to have any food - fully booked in 15 minutes - so we had sugary drinks and crisps instead. This small snack was expanded by some salty nuts that had been transported up in my companions back pocket - so they were a salty, warm snack.




After photos to show what we had achieved were taken, we made our way back to the road. This involved walking down the gravel slope, we passed some cyclists who were pushing their bikes up the gravel slope.

Back at the tarmac, we saw we had a new friend on the Garmin    

We started our descent but turned left for a look to see were the mountain bikers had gone - we turned round at the car park - we could have done more, but decided that this was enough.

Now for the return journey, the way back was nearly as fun as the way up going through the tunnels again and we soon reached the turn out of the valley and into the sun. It wasnt long before we were back at Sion station having had an epic ride. What a day out!

After more investigation I now see that there are other small roads at the top the valley to investigate and I intend to go back later this year. Look out for the BLVF Strava club event - expect late September. If we go then, it should be cooler and there are another 3 dead end roads to investigate if you feel up to it.

Distance:  43km

Climbing: 1005m

Avg Speed: 14km/h

Views: priceless

Tunnels: Loads, well lit, single lane but lights for busses and some massive "windows" to see out and let light in